Clematis: The Queen of Climbers and Flowering Elegance

Pruning time depends on the type of clematis:

• Group 1 (early-flowering, e.g. alpina): prune after flowering in late spring.

• Group 2 (large-flowered hybrids): prune lightly in early spring, removing weak stems and dead growth.

• Group 3 (late-flowering): cut back hard in early spring, to about 30–50 cm above ground.

The best time to plant clematis is in spring (March–May) or early autumn (September–October). The soil should be warm and workable, but not frozen or waterlogged.

Plant clematis in a sunny or lightly shaded spot with cool roots. Dig a deep hole, enrich with compost, and bury the base of the plant 5–10 cm deeper than it was in the pot — this encourages strong shoots. Add a mulch or low-growing plants at the base to shade the roots, and provide a support structure for climbing.

Yes, many clematis varieties grow well in large containers (at least 45 cm deep). Use loamy, well-draining compost, and add drainage material at the bottom. Keep the roots shaded and moist, and place the pot in a sunny spot with support for climbing.

Take softwood cuttings in late spring to early summer. Cut a 10–15 cm long non-flowering shoot, remove lower leaves, and insert it into moist seed compost. Cover with a clear plastic bag or propagator and place in bright, indirect light. Roots should form in 4–6 weeks.

What clematis looks like in winter depends on the variety:

• Most deciduous clematis (the majority) lose their leaves completely, and their stems appear bare or woody, especially after cutting back.

• Evergreen clematis (like Clematis armandii) keep their foliage and look green year-round, though they may look a bit weathered in cold, windy areas.

Don’t worry if your clematis looks bare – that’s completely normal for winter, and it’ll bounce back in spring.